Traveling North

Toluca

Beautiful hill city of Taxco about 150km south west of Mexico city, built on the side of very big hills. Biking around here was all 2nd and 3rd gear, with wonderful scenery at every turn.

A complete change of pace,Toluca, 75 km West of Mexico city, clean streets and old Spanish buildings.

Me happily contemplating climbing the pyramid of the Moon

2700 year old pyramid of the moon at Teotihuacan just north of Mexico city.

Beautiful clean food stall in Teotihuacan.

Well I guess as this is basically an electronic diary, made public, then it would mean little if it was all sunshine and light. Life just isnt like that.

As I said in the previous blog entry, I basically lost my nerve in Acapulco. Didnt want to get back on my horse. I was kind of paralized by not wanting to go on with the bike and not wanting to go back. I thought, every kilometer I go on, is a kilometer I have to return.
So in the end I decided to turn round, and not continue to Guadamala border. I had had too many scary moments on the road south and basically didnt want any more.

So I headed north, with huge regrets. As soon as I left Aca... everything changed, the riding conditions became normal, enjoyable. I went via beautiful mountain, desert winding roads past amazing towns built on the sides of hills, to Toluca. Could not believe I was i the same nation.
Traffic stops at traffic lights, give way to each other, the footpaths are flat, and the rubbish goes in the bin rather than o the ground. Old spanish buildings and a cool climate.

So that experience, and the days on the road since have convinced me that I should not have turned around, it was just the crazy hot overpopulated west coast the was the problem.... I regret that decision. I am now on the Mexico USA border, and spent last night agonizing about turning around again, heading back south. I love Mexico, I love the mexicans for their zest and enthusiasm for life, the noise, the music, street life, friendlyness and tolorance of an ignorant Aussie who cannot speak the lingo .

The riding has been superb, beautiful scenery everwhere, and I have even become at home with the size of the Beemer, can now do feet up full lock u turns with all the luggage on board. A very important skill bearing in mind Mexican road signage.

In the end I have decided to continue into the USA, try to unload the bike and most of my luggage, and maybe return to Guadamala by plane, and travel by bus for a few weeks.

Anyway thats todays plan, who knows what I will have decided by tomorrow.

Pics of Acapulco

Found this pic of the longshot of the cliff diving place.

Markets near my Hotel. Those tomatoes are 5 pesos per kilo = 5 cents.

Clara at Jugo narango stall.

You thought Stephanie close had good view Helen! get a load of this!!!

They actually start very high. you can see the camera is looking up here and down in the image below.

The famous cliff divers. Didnt get any good still pics of this as I was taking movies.

This taxi is about to try to reverse out of the traffic jam. Unfortunatly not noticing my huge Bavarian beast. Knocked me over. I needed his help to get the bike on its feet. Just a few more scratches to add to the many already there. But no harm done we departed amigos.

One of the many little beaches around the bays of Acapulco.

Nice place for a beer.

There are some rather outstanding things about Mexico.

Acapulco

What can I say... Acapulco.... must be one of the craziest, clamorous, glamorous, dirtiest, violent outragous places on earth, and I loved it. Kind of a down and dirty experience, bit like an asian city on steroids.

All the cops carry very big guns, in the street all the time. And they look positivly meek compared to the military. They drive around the streets in army trucks with a dozen or so men with machine guns poking out in all directions. There is a virtual war going on between drug lords and the authorities. Last week a local police station came under attack and 4 cops were killed, the military had to come and bail them out. The cops get around in convoys at night, I saw them bailing up two flsh dudes in a Mustang convertable, guns everyware, about 5 police cars, and a dozen police on rather tasty little road trail bikes. Given the war I could see the sense in their target. Unfortunatly I dont have any pics of these things, too many trigger happy young mexicans around to go getting a big black camera out and pointing it at them.

I ground to a halt in Acapulco... Riding down the coast of Mexico, is much further than I thought, and the unremitting bad roads poor drivers, dangerous situations, just blew the stuffing out of me. After the final 70km taking me 2 hot dirty clutchslipping, horn blowing fender dodging hours, I arrived in Aca... absolutly buggered, then had to cope with the homosidal taxi drivers. Millions of the aggressive little barstards, driving as fast as they can, diving through any gap they can, giving way to no one, least of all hot, exhausted lost Australian bikers.

I collapsed into the first hotel I came to and stayed there for 3 days, not daring to get back on the bike.

As a result of all that, I have decided I have had enough of trying to ride to Guatamala. I think if I had a companion to goad me on, and for me to goad on, then we would probably have been there now. But I have decided to turn inland and cut back across to the top corner of Mexico, see if I can unload the bike. Buses seem a better proposition at the moment.

Tomorrow I will put up some pics.

Some more Pics Feb 11 2007

Some interesting Mexican architecture.

Death is never far away on Mexican roads.. This is about the most humble roadside monument

I have seen, some are mighty.

On the road to Pueto Azuel then Accapulco.

This is the ´love hotel´ pretty fancy eh!

TAME! Saltwater crocodile is the main attraction for diners at this beach cafe. The brave tourists even swim in the ocean at the beach behind. There a heaps of very big Salties in this stream but they dont always stay there... I did not swim there.










Typical Malaque street My hotel is the white building in the distance.

This is the beach behind my hotel in Malaque. (not actually the pic I was trying to download but you get the general idea)

Halfway through Mexico

Mexico is BIG... well not so much wide, but very very long.
I had planned to zip through Mexico in about 5 days, then R & R in Guadamala.

Mmmm, best laid plans and all. Five days of flat out travel from San Diego, had only got me around half way down the length.

The fifth night, when I did my last blog, made a rather stupid mistake.. Thought I had booked into the best bargain hotel I have ever seen.. Lock up garage, superb facilities, ushered straight into garage when I first arrived (dog tired, and dirty from the road) room service cheap, with first class food, and wierdly two channels of óver the top ´the whole chicken´style porn on the TV. All for around $21.00 per night. In my fractured phrase book Spanish I established that check out time was 8 oclock. Well I thought, this is all very weird, never heard of a Hotel like that, but then again I am an alien in an alien world.

I was quite happy with everything, and eventually got off to sleep, only to be suprised by the phone, at 1.00 am. I thought maybe Helen had called and got the time wrong.. Turned out it was reception, at first in Spanish, to which I crankily responded that Yo no comprehendo´´´ My tormenter immediately turned to perfect English, informed me that my 8 hrs was up, time for me to go!!!! I was very angry, but in the end paid for another 8 hours, it was the middle of the night, and didnt want to get up and they had big security guy´s which I had previosly found comforting..

I left that town the next morning in the fouulest mood possible, which lasted all day.

Beautifull ride through stunning country but all I could think about was the rip off, and the lousy Mexican roads, and how long this was all taking, and I think I´ll just bloody turn around, and head for home.

Anyway, after a terribly long unpleasant day on the road, quite by accident, I stumbled into what I thought was another dusty Mexican village, and thought I was going to have to sleep in a cocoroach infested slum with noisy traffic roaring past all night.... Wrong.

The town of Malaque, on the west coast about half way down Mexico, is a low end tourist town, still very Mexican, but with many beautiful hotels, fabulous beach, great eating and a very active community, both tourist and Mexican... Cock fights, Bull fights, and a national festival tonight.

I ended up in a beautiful Hotel on the beach for $25 per night, and have ended up staying 3 days..

I am now relaxed and ready to continue. Have come to grips with it taking a long time to travel on Mexico, and am determined not to let it get to me again..

By the way the rip off hotel turnrd out to be an enormous cultural mistake by me... It is what they call a love hotel... Extended familys with lots of kids and granparents mean very little privacy for parents, who sometimes escape to the love hotel for a few hours privacy... Lesson learned.

I would be interested to recieve any comments, so I know if anyone is out there.

Ian. Feb 9 2007

Some Pics

One week later

It is taking way too long to do this, took an hour for that previous one.. so Ill cut this short..
I am currently deep in the heart of Mexico. Place called Tepic, about half way down on the west coast.

I love it, very different place to Australia, iindeed very different to the USA... I had had just about enough of huge freeways, giganting shopping centres you need a car to drive between the shops, in the car park, they are so big.

Strangely Mexico reminded me of home, I felt at ease as soon as I hit the place. Everything is human scale. They have main streets with shops in them, and the roads are two way and dangerous as hell just like at home. The locals are on the whole friendly though not all that interested in another gringo on a motorcycle... some are pretty impressed with the size of it but... as am I.

It is very comfortable, and amazingly econonomical.. 59mpg yesterday.
The big tank was worth the nearly weeks wait, gives me a range of nearly 600 km I think. Cant sit on it that long thats for sure.

The fist night in Mexico I stayed in a reasonable motel well off the street, woke around midnight to an unusual high pitched clamour, I thought it must be a disco I haddnt noticed something. Upon investigation, I found it was the entire under 25 male population of the town, in a traffic jam in the the main street, with their stereos turned up full, playing melodic Mexican mustic.. That first day was fun..

The last three days have all been exciting, to various degrees... but no trouble as predicted by nearly every American I spoke too, most of whom asked if I would be 'packin heat'.

Ill just put up a few pics for now, time to go and find a street burrito.

Cant get the pics to download at the moment will try again soon.

Jan 29/30

Blogging with a Spanish language blog page is tricky... Just lost the fist attempt at this due to pressing the wrong button.

On Sunday Paul and Nadine took me to their favourite place, The Grand Canyon, to do their favorite thing, clambering down impossibly steep, ice covered paths, then clambering back up them. I think the whole idea is to EXPERIENCE the G C rather than just looking at it. Well I experienced it, so did my calves, and my thighs.... Great experience P and N, thanks so much. Thats them in the top pic, still looking happy despite the slippery climb.

Monday morning I rang Mar, "hows the bike" "well man , all finished, perfect ready to go! except for the tank"... I decided to stay with P and N one more day, to give Mar a chance to change the tank..

Paul has the best job in the world, and a few others for that matter. Amonst many things, he controlls some of the cameras on the Mars Rover, like on Mars!!!! I sat and looked over his shoulder whilst he did it. Amazing stuff.. what an experience. Thanks again for that Paul.. Come to Australia sometime I,ll show you how I draw pipes.

Top Pic, is Paul operating cam on Mars...

Got out of Flagstaff about one hour before the snow started which lasted two days... drove through quite a heavy snow shower, but fotunately it mostly left me alone. Got back to San Diego (8 h drive( got the bike rego-ed and insured all in one hectic day.

..